Fort Hammenhiel

Situated on an islet at the tip of Karainagar island guarding the channel between the islands of Karainagar and Kayts in Jaffna lies Fort Hammenhiel.

Initially constructed by the Portuguese to guard the entrance to the Jaffna peninsula, the fort was named as Fortaleza Real (Fort Royal). However, the fort was soon captured by the Dutch and renamed as Hammenhiel (heel of ham). The Portuguese were forced to surrender when the water tank in the fort which was their sole source of fresh water was destroyed in the battle.

A plaque mentioning the history of the fort

A painting at Fort Hammenhiel depicting the battle between the Portuguese and Dutch

During the 1971 insurrection, the fort was also used as a prison and housed several leaders of the insurrection including most famously Rohana Wijeweera.

The fort today is a luxury resort run by the Sri Lanka Navy. There is a restaurant with the same name also run by the same management at the tip of Karainagar which affords a magnificent view of Fort Hammenhiel. In fact it is from this point that the navy shuttles residents of Fort Hammenhiel from the mainland via motor boats.

During a visit to Jaffna last year, we were fortunate to be granted permission to visit the fort.

Fort Hammenhiel - seen from the Navy run restaurant at Karainagar island

The restaurant run by the navy and the jetty where the boats to Fort Hammenhiel depart

The ramparts of the fort

A lone fisherman

Entrance to the fort

Cells that housed many a famous prisoner

Kirindi Ella

Cascading down from the Kuttapitiya mountain and standing 116 meters tall, Kirindi Ella is the 7th highest waterfall in Sri Lanka.

Despite being just 5 Kms away from the Ratnapura - Balangoda highway, Kirindi Ella remains off the beaten track. Turn left towards the Kuttapitiya road, just before the Pelmadulla junction and travel 5 Kms to reach Kirindi Ella.

While most of the waterfalls in the hill country tend to cascade down a precipice, Kirindi Ella chooses to gracefully flow down an incline and is hard to take your eyes off.

You need to descend a series of steps to reach the observation platform which has a great view of the waterfall. The base pool of the waterfall is also accessible but be prepared for a grueling descent and an even more tiring ascent down many more steps.

Notice board at the start of the steps descending to Kirindi Ella

The steps that need to be descended

The observation deck

Kirindi Ella - seen from the observation platform

More steps lead down to reach the base of the waterfall

Surathali Ella

When travelling on the A4 highway, approximately 10 kms after passing Belihul Oya (A few kms before reaching the turn off to Bambarakanda) you will come across a notice board labeled Surathali Ella. Right next to the board is a small footpath that leads to Surathali Ella (its a very short walk from the road).

According to the notice board, this 60 meter tall waterfall was previously known as Marangaha Ella but is now commonly known as Surathali Ella after a film called Surathali was made at this location.

Bambarakanda and Lanka Ella falls

Standing 263 meters tall, Bambarakanda falls is the highest waterfall in Sri Lanka and the 299th highest waterfall in the world.

From the Kalupahana junction, turn off from the A4 highway on to the Ohiya road and travel approximately 5 Kms to reach Bambarakanda falls.

A little after Bambarakanda comes into view by the side of the road, there is a small footpath that leads into the shrubs. Follow this footpath until it crosses a stream. Thereafter there are a series of steps and a concrete walkway that leads you to the Bambarakanda base pool and newly built observation deck.

Bambarakanda seen from the roadside

Bambarakanda - on a day when there was more water

The path to the base pool

Newly built walkways

Crystal clear water at the base pool

Less than a year ago, Bambarakanda falls was in a pristine environment inside a pine forest accessible only through a footpath. With the construction of an observation deck and concrete walkways, this has become more accessible and unfortunately the cost of development is that it is no longer a pristine hidden waterfall. Avoid long weekends if you want to avoid crowds.

Note: The above clip was taken before the observation deck was constructed

The good news is that your trek does not have to end here. There is a footpath that takes you to the top of Bambarakanda falls through the pine forest and a branch path that leads to Lanka Ella falls. Since these are not so easy to access and less well known, for the moment at least they are free from crowds.

The path through the pine forest

The view while climbing - seen far below is the road where we started from

Side view of Bambarakanda from the top

A look out point with a 360 degree view of the surroundings

 At the top of Bambarakanda falls, there is another waterfall cascading down into a pool that then falls down the precipice to form the main Bambarakanda falls.

The cascade at the top of Bambarakanda falls

A waterfall on top of a waterfall, the water from this base pool spills over a precipice forming the main Bambarakanda falls

The view from the top

And down she falls..

If you take the branch path to Lanka Ella, you will come across a waterfall where the base pool has an uncanny resemblance to the island of Sri Lanka (hence the name). The water cascades into the Puttlam/Mannar area and flows out of the Batticaloa area.

The path to Lanka Ella

Lanka Ella

Note the shape of Sri Lanka, Jaffna is to your right. Water cascades in from Mannar and flows out of Batticaloa

Bambarakanda Eco Resort is a small family run lodge where you can enjoy a typical Sri Lankan meal. Call ahead for reservations. The proprietor - Mrs. Sera Mayakaduwa is a wealth of knowledge about the area and can recommend other nature trails for those who want more adventure. You can even stay overnight at Bambarakanda Eco Resort but keep in mind that this is a back to basics sort of accommodation so don't expect any luxuries. Compensating this of course is the magnificent view of the Bambarakanda falls and the hospitality from Mrs. Sera and her family.

Bambarakanda Eco Resort with Bambarakanda falls in the background